July 1, 2016  —  by

Best of Menswear S/S17

credit: courtesy of the fashion houses

Maison Margiela

The French fashion house showcased it’s Spring/Summer 2017 men’s  collection at Paris Fashion Week on Friday morning (24 June – 16) inside the city’s historical Ecole de Medicine.

The show opened up a model wearing a pair of black formal pants with a deconstructed black blazer with white seam lines or more of white chalk lines. Either way it was the look to open and speak for the whole collection. This time around the design team for Marginal showcased a more out-of-the bed man. But still being true to the brands aesthetic – the unfinished – avant gard pieces. A mixture of avant garde suits,  streetstyle and a man on the go. We love that the clothes have an attitude and still very wearable for a man, and fashionable

Balenciaga

Fun fact –  the first look of the Balenciaga show was inspired by a coat, by your truly, Cristobal Balenciaga -which he never finished. The coat had just one arm and Demna Gvasalia decided to finish it out and thought it was important for it to be included in the show. This was the first time new creative director Demna Gvasalia, showcased his first ever mens collection for Balenciaga, following up the woman collection that was in march.

Broad shoulders, tight fit – loose fit, exaggerated pieces had all something in common in this collection – tailoring. Tailoring was a big detail in this collection, to make sure that the clothing really fits on the Balenciaga man.

Gucci

Alessandro Michele inspiration for it’s Spring/Summer 2017 menswear was The Travels of Marco Polo. With a mixture patterns and prints. With more than just on piece of clothing with Donald Duck face on it made the collection playful and happy. Something we found extreme important in todays big fashion houses. He mixed his signature modern vintage aesthetic with Asiatic embroideries (dragons and tigers.

Prada

Miuccia Prada showcased a more underground style of mens fashion, the adventures one. An adventures man and woman, walked the runway. She managed to take a button down collared shirt, and with her futuristic designs and silhouettes, make it fashionable and  furthermore wearble for a man. Paired with neon nylon joggers, sandals and hop on this wear hottes trend – parkas – which came in various colors. All around a man on the go with clothing printed in a series of mild tropical jungle and elephants.

 Versace

After Donatella Versace spent 4 days in Chicago, to photograph the house Fall 2016 campaign, she stumbled to get some new influences and visions on the Versace man.

While there has always been an element of being seen in Versace clothes — often in the form of look-at-me prints, gold buttons, Medusa heads and a kind of roughness — this time, the collection was different. Although the men were still tough and had a roughness it had more of a movement that was fluid. We love the lightweight fabric here at Nombre. Long, lightweight coats and parkas, silk shirts and robes were all perfect for a man in the summer weather.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten spoke with Vogue Runway about his Spring/Summer 2017 collection: He said: “For me I wanted to do a new take on Arts and Crafts. All those palettes and embroideries that we used in the past I didn’t want to use, so I tried to find new elements in volumes, in shapes, and in putting fabrics together. So I looked a lot at fabric art, to textile artists who were very active in the ’60s and ’70s and in whom there is now a new interest.”

Raf Simons 

Raf Simons is no stranger on collaborating with artists.  Previously he teamed up with graphic designer Peter Saville. This time around the artist contacted Mr. Simons – They wondered if he would be interested in using Mapplethorpe’s work in a collection. “They approached me,” he said backstage after his show as a guest of Pitti Uomo in Florence. “That was an instant yes from me. I am a huge fan. I think its very relevant work, very beautiful, emotional, liberating work.” Their response: “Can you start tomorrow?”

The collection futured long oversized clothing – yet tailored to the body. And something unusual, photo of nudity on the clothing, such as a erect male genital. It’s not the first time designers have future male genitals on the runway. Walter Van Bierdendonck printed penis T-shirt in 1998 and Rick Owens when he let his models walked down the runway show their penises.

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